Sunday 21 February 2010

Lima Central

Anew day, a new adventure. This time I ventured into the centre of Lima. The day before I had been chatting to my sister and she asked why I had not been on the bus yet? Because they are the most dangerous form of transport known to man, I replied. The crew of Apollo 13 would think twice before stepping onto a minibus (or combi) in Lima.

So, after she asked this I could only really use the combi on my journey into Lima Central (even if it was a silly idea). Michael had said that the buses in South America are high quality, well if Merry Hill Mini buses from cicra 1934 are high quality, that explains why Michael drives a Smart car (only joking mom!).

so I step onto the bus (not sure if it is really going in the right direction) and the driver sets off at a million miles an hour, with the conductor hanging out of the open door calling out for potential customers. Pot holes and huge holes are driven over with gusto (and there are a lot of these) but fortunately there is a combi lane. Unfortunately it is busier than the normal car lane and you cannot move. This does not stop the drivers trying to move, cutting each other up, cutting each other back up, and cutting each other back up again. On top of this the drivers like to answer their mobile phones (using them in strange Peruvian way whereby they use it like a walky talkie? The other Peruvian foible is covering their mouth with their hand whilst using the phone - I think they have had problems with deaf people decifering what they are saying and feeding it back to the corrupt government - or maybe they have all got smelly breath from the huge amount of red onions they put on absolutely everything!!!!!). Anywho I am sure it will not be long before I adopt the covered mouth position for my phone conversations (this may look a bit starnge for those of you that talk to me on Skype but you will get used to it). Plus this particular bus driver liked to read the newspaper whilst driving too - just to add that little more danger to the journey.

Then in the distance I see it! Not the city, but the smog that means the centre must be close. The end of the road cannot be seen for the think dust (and hygroscopic nucleii) that pack the air. As the traffic is going nowhere, jumping off and walking was the best option (why others dont also do this I am not sure ((they must know something about the area I dont)).

The buildings are typically colonial (run down colonial to be more accurate). This is like Buenos Aires but without a lick of paint being applied since the Spanish first came over. After all if its ain't baroque then why fix it!

And after the shiny security guard haven that is Mira Flores, real Lima finally struck me. Beggars are on every corner, mothers elbow their kids to go after the white man in the England shirt, people look at you everywhere (again for the whiteness). However, the beggars are not rude, they are not agressive and they are hugely grateful for money (rather than seeing you have more in your wallet and begging further). The people are polite (a lady actually stood on a corner warning tourists from going down there).

The central sqaure is beautiful (see cheesy video I made) and the area still carries this strange intangible buzz that Peru seems to have. There was a food festival, although only dougnuts were consumed and there was also the chance to listen to an awful singer (he also was hugely grateful as the money in his pot was tripled!).

Then to the Church ........ to be continued.

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